Kuelap
City in the clouds
Located in northeastern Peru in the Amazonas region, 72 km (44 miles) from the city of Chachapoyas, the regional capital, Kuelap is an ancient stone fortress built strategically on a ridge looking out over the Utcubamba Valley. It is one of the most important archaeological monuments of the Americas.
Kuelap was discovered in 1843. It was built around the 9th century by the pre-Inca culture of Chachapoyas, in a difficult terrain of the cloud forest. The citadel covers an area of around 6 hectares (over 14 acres) with some 420 circular buildings that include a watchtower and a castle. The defense walls are very impressive, reaching 25 meters (82 ft) in height, with three points of access shaped like funnels, so that only one person can enter at a time. Kuelap includes an area for camping that provides spectacular views.
The region's attractions include Leymebamba, where there is a community museum that exhibits valuable remains of the Chachapoyas culture. There is also a fascinating trail (15 hours by mule) to the mysterious Lake of the Condors (also called Lake of the Mummies), where a series of pre-Inca mausoleums stand high above the shore. Some 48km (5 hours by mule) northwest of Chachapoyas is the village of Shipata (2,760 masl / 9,055 ft) and the impressive vertical tombs of Karajia perched
on the rockface facing the valley of Juscubamba. There are also remains of the ancient Chachapoyas and varied folk arts at Jalca Grande (2,890 masl / 9,482 ft).
Altitude
Chachapoyas: 2,336 masl (7,664 ft): Kuelap: 3,000 masl (9,842 ft); Leymebamba: 2,135 masl (7,004 ft).
How to Get There
- By air: flights from Lima with a stopover in Tarapoto (90 minutes).
- Overland: from Tarapoto, 359 km / 223 miles (8 hours in private transport); from Cajamarca, 336 km / 209 miles (14 hours); from Lima via Trujillo and Chiclayo to Chachapoyas, 1,350 km / 839 miles (20 hours); from Chiclayo to Chachapoyas, 570 km / 354 miles (9 hours).
- There is no regular public transport to Kuelap and other towns. Visitors will need to join organized expeditions.
Lodging
Up to three-star hotels in Chachapoyas. Basic accommodations in other towns, with areas ideal for camping.
Activities
Archaeology, eco-tourism, trekking, wildlife watching, angling.
Tourist Services
Basic restaurants in Chachapoyas. Overland transport to Kuelap (organized tours), guided tours, full services for visiting other towns.
Minimum Length of Stay
One day to visit Kuelap, four days to visit Lake of the Condors.
Recommendations
Acclimatization is necessary for the first few hours on arrival. Eat easily-digestible food and drink coca tea to ward off high-altitude sickness.
Season / Climate
The best time of year to visit is between June and October as rains are rare. Temperatures are temperate to cold.
Festivals
- Chachapoyas Tourist Week (June 1-7): major festivities include the My Neighborhood festival and the Raymillacta of the Chachapoyas.
- Festival of the Virgen de Asunta (August 7-15): the statue of the Virgin is carried through the streets of Chachapoyas, which have been carpeted with brightlycolored flower petals.
- Festival of the Señor de Gualamita (September 10-15): legend has it that the statue of Christ originally came from Cuzco, from where it was brought to Lamud.
Gastronomy
- Purtumute: black beans cooked with kernels of sweetcorn and cilantro.
- Cuy con Papas: potatoes and fried guinea pig.
- Juanes de Yuca: grated and boiled manioc mixed with rice and chicken and/or beef jerky wrapped in corn husks.
- Enrollado: Beef or pork roll stuffed with raisins, carrots and hard-boiled eggs.
